Grazing on bugs in Brisbane

History – introduction Brisbane has a colourful history. The city began as a penal settlement "for the worst class of offender". Today its sun-filled outdoor lifestyle is the envy of Australia. Sunset Moreton Bay penal settlement 1824-1842 It was actually an afterthought to choose Brisbane as a jail site. When Surveyor General John Oxley surveyed the region from aboard the cutter 'Mermaid', and area north of Brisbane called Redcliffe was the original preference. The crew saw a group of Aborigines and "one who appeared larger than the rest" on a beach in Moreton Bay, whilst the 'Mermaid' was anchored off Bribie Island. Oxley found a river and named it in honour of the then Governor of New South Wales, Sir Thomas Brisbane. Bay In 1825, less than a year after the convicts arrived, the Redcliffe site was abandoned mainly because Brisbane had a more reliable water supply. Brisbane was also surrounded by a bend in the river, which made escape more difficult. Today Brisbane (population 2 million) is now a cosmopolitan capital city of Queensland, which has hosted two major world events - the 1982 Commonwealth Games and World Expo 1988. Blessed with a glorious climate, the Sunshine State also benefits from a number of natural and man-made attractions. There is something for everyone from The Great Barrier Reef and Fraser Island (world's largest sand island) up north, down through tropical rainforests, pineapple plantations, vineyards, Australia Zoo (The Crocodile Hunter), a Koala Sanctuary and a Dolphin Resort, to the surfing beaches and casinos of the Gold Coast. Barramundi (Lates calcarifer) http://www.nativefish.asn.au/barramundi.html Also known as Barra, Silver Barramundi, Giant Perch and Palmer Perch. Sometimes (incorrectly) known as Nile Perch. Up to 1.8 m and 60 kg (6 ft. & 130 lb) but commonly 1.2m long. Inhabits rivers creeks and mangrove estuaries. Barramundi are a catadromous species, which grows to maturity in the upper reaches of freshwater rivers and streams before adults move downstream to estuaries and coastal waters for spawning, especially during flooding. Moreton Bay Bugs or Bay Lobster (Thenus orientalis) http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/fishweb/2548.html Moreton Bay Bugs are native to northern Australia and grow to a length of 28cm and over 0.5kg. They are reddish-brown in colour with speckling and have dull yellowish tails. The Bug lives on muddy or sandy bottoms in oceanic waters to depths of up to 60m. It buries itself during the day and is active at night. The flesh is said to be firmer but sweeter than rock lobster and is the local delicacy of Brisbane. Thus, started our culinary search for bugs… Of course, dear Reader, you have the advantage of the description above. When we first arrived in Brisbane, we did not even know what one looked like, let alone what it tasted like. What could we expect? ‘PIER NINE’ Our first encounter with the Moreton Bay Bug (a potential show-stopper as you will see later) was at 'Pier Nine Restaurant & Wine Bar' located at Eagle Street Pier. Entrance Open plan kitchen 'Pier Nine' was an archetypal Brisbane experience. A floor-to-ceiling glass wall offered spectacular views of the Brisbane River and Story Bridge. Essentially modern Australian and predominantly seafood, the cuisine style also acknowledges Asian, French and Mediterranean influences. Owner, Matthew Hill-Smith (whose family has generations of experience in the wine industry) and executive chef Michael Wood, claim to ensure consistent supply of fresh, high quality produce by maintaining close relationships with the local manufacturers. When I visited in July 2003, I beg to differ about some of the 'freshness'. The Wine List was top-end Australian/New Zealand with impressive reserve listings and an extensive selection of wines by the glass. This was expected for a family so close to the wine industry. It was a busy evening and we had to whet our appetite with a few drinks in an adjacent bar nicknamed "The Tank". We also spied a sushi bar but did not partake of any. Since Mr. Hill-Smith's purchase of the restaurant in 1991, 'Pier Nine' has won many varied awards including: The Queensland Tourism Award, American Express Best Seafood (3 years in a row), American Express Hall of Fame, National Restaurant and Caterer's Award for Excellence in Training, Oyster Grower's Gold Award (twice), Queensland Seafood Festival Best Seafood Restaurant (2 years in a row) and the prestigious Gourmet Traveller Three Stars (2 years in a row). The restaurant bills itself as a "nine-star fish & chip restaurant”. Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc 2002, Martinborough A.C., New Zealand. This herbaceous dry wine with a hint of lime, peaches and apples, went nicely with the seafood to follow. We ordered four starters and two main courses to share between two diners and left out dessert. After all, this was a seafood restaurant Did we have enough cutlery? STARTERS South Australian Oysters (Coffin Bay) The oysters were fresh but not as ‘creamy’ as I was led to believe by our server. Baby Calamari (Moreton Bay) Tender calamari sautéed in chermoula, preserved lemon, toasted almond and honey scented cheese was a bit sweet but not overcooked. Brown Tiger Prawns (Moreton Bay) Grilled and served with peanut sauce and black sesame naan bread. The peanut sauce was similar to Malay ‘satay’ (grilled meat skewers) sauce. [See ‘Grazing Malay in Singapore’ article] Seared Scallops (Bundabery) Served with black pudding potato-cake and a chilli capsicum sauce. Perhaps a touch over cooked but not overtly rubbery. MAIN COURSES Moreton Bay Bugs This was offered cooked in a number of ways. Upon our server’s recommendation, we chose steamed served with sweet noodles, onion shallot broth and seaweed salad. This was meant to be the highlight of the evening; finally, we would get to see the famous ‘bug’. WHEW! No wonder these Australians are such hardy chaps, we thought, as the smell overcame us. What a strong ‘delicacy’ – “How could they describe this as sweeter than rock lobster?” It did not help that our server called the Bay Bug, “the cockroach of the sea”. Later that night, my tummy was unwell indeed (repeatedly) ………hmmm. Wild Barramundi (Cairns) Grilled and served with roasted baby vegetables, onion & truffle compote and port & red wine reduction sauce. Barramundi is an excellent fish for grilling and this was a competent rendition. Barramundi is also farmed but the wild type is said to be more flavoursome. CONCLUSION - ‘PIER NINE’ Our first (and potentially last) encounter with Moreton Bay Bugs was memorable for the sheer intensity of the smell and an upset tummy. Later, after I found out what a fresh Bug really should taste like, I may return to give Pier Nine another chance, as most of the other dishes were competently done. RESTAURANT 'II' Restaurant & Catering Queensland & VISA International State Industry Awards for Excellence 2002 - 'Fine Dining' Category Winners. Following the successful model of their first award-winning restaurant, ‘Two Small Rooms’, David Pugh and Michael Conrad have raised the game at Restaurant ‘II’. Michael Conrad is a man with style and that, combined with David Pugh's unique cooking style, has put ‘II’ in the top rank of dining rooms in Australia. Restaurant ‘II’ won the best modern Australian restaurant award in 2002. This chic restaurant is in a 100-year-old building opposite the Botanical Gardens and is Brisbane's first restaurant to be awarded three red stars from ‘Australian Gourmet Traveller Magazine’. Did we have enough cutlery? We opted for the degustation menu including a tasting flight of wines paired with the 8 courses. As we did not know this beforehand, we had ordered pre-dinner drinks as well: Blue Pyrenees 1998 (VIC) champagne-style sparkling wine. Yummy - Why do we pay extra just for the French Champagne appellation? Key: FR-France, IT- Italy, SA-South Australia, VIC-Victoria, and WA-Western Australia. Roasted Baby Beetroot Salad with Fresh Ricotta and Parmesan Chips. Wine: Howard Park Riesling 2002 (WA). The sweet warm beetroot, acid balsamic vinegar and creamy ricotta went very nicely with the young Riesling. I got whiffs of ‘kerosene’ from the wine only when drunk with this salad and have been wondering why ever since.... Spicy Pumpkin Laksa with Calamari and Petuna Ocean Trout. Wine: Domaine Paul Blanck Pinot Blanc 2001 (FR). Oops! I forgot to take a photo in the mêlée of scrumminess. This was an interesting rendition of S.E. Asian-style coconut, lemongrass, squid, hard-boiled egg and pumpkin soup with rice vermicelli. The wine had an equally fragrant aroma and dryness to complement the sweet creamy soup. Seared Queensland Scallops and Bay Bugs with Angel Hair Pasta and Foie Gras Sauce. Wine: T’Gallant Unwooded Chardonnay 2002 (VIC). My tasting notes say “Sweet bugs unlike the previous encounter!” This was a truly gorgeous dish. The tender scallops were seared on the outside but warm and tender on the inside. The Bay Bugs were indeed “sweeter than rock lobster” and we could see now what the fuss was all about. The pasta and sauce alone would have sufficed for taste but with the scallops and (now a favourite) Bug crustacean, it was simply divine. Do you get the feeling that this was my favourite course of the evening? Organic Prosciutto Risotto, Sautéed Wood and Field Mushrooms, Truffle Oil. Wine: Petaluma Chardonnay 2000 (SA). The rice, hiding under the ham, was perfect in the Milanese style, each grain almost bursting but not slushy like in southern Italy. As a test, I tried a little remaining chardonnay from the previous course instead of the recommended Petaluma. I had to agree that the recommended wine complemented the food better. The earthier mushrooms and truffle oil needed that little bit more wood and acidity from the Petaluma to round off the course. Asian Barbecued Duck with Steamed Greens, Chilli Jam, Sweet Potato, Spicy Citrus Jus. Wine: Dromana Pinot Noir 2001 (VIC). This was another fusion ‘tour de force’ with the spicy plum from the pinot noir in perfect marriage with the duck, 'Bok Choy' and chilli. At this point, there were “angels dancing on my tongue”. Loin of Casino Veal, Parsnip Puree, Sautéed Mushrooms and Confit Sweetbreads. Wine: Chapel Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (SA). Pink veal and Cabernet Sauvignon; need I say more? Woodside Charleston Brie (SA) & Red Cow Regianno (IT) Cheeses. Wine: Elderton Barossa Shiraz 2001 (SA). I do not usually order a cheese course and am quite content watching my dining partner do the ‘cheese thing’. I must say that these creamy offerings had the fat and flavour to bring out the best from a chewy Shiraz. At this point, the angels were marching down my tummy ! Assiette of Miniature Desserts. Wine: Beaumes DeVenise 1999 (FR). Ah…well, teeny-weeny sweets were all we could manage at this point: Rice Pudding, Crème Brûlée, Mango & Vanilla Crème Tart, Hazelnut & Coffee Soufflé, Mixed Melon Sorbet and Warm Chocolate Pudding. A world-class dessert wine is possibly the only style missing from the Antipodean oenological armamentarium but this French import was up to the job as usual. CONCLUSION – RESTAURANT ‘II’ I concur that this is one of the top rank of dining rooms in Australia. I am glad that Moreton Bay Bug was on the menu. Otherwise, I may have left Brisbane with the false impression gleaned from eating bad bugs at a previous restaurant. Those Bugs are GOOD unless they are bad POSTSCRIPT I just HAD to eat a load of fresh Moreton Bay Bugs and rock lobster from a ‘free-flow’ buffet at ‘The Atrium Cafe’ in the Brisbane Hilton Hotel, just to confirm that it had sweeter meat than rock lobster and I am happy to report that it had. Signing off, all bugged out MTF Other website links and their copyrights acknowledged. Text and photos copyright Melvyn Teillol-Foo 2003 ThePuristS.com Wine and Food Discussion Forum  |  ThePuristS.com Home Page We welcome comments, suggestions, and corrections. Copyright 2002-2003 - MTF and ThePuristS.com - all rights reserved