Grazing Bank in Canterbury


by MTF
© February 2003

LLOYDS Restaurant, Canterbury, England.


Eponymous former Bank building near Westgate.

The décor was stripped hardwood floors, Burgundy painted walls, tie-dyed murals, wall hangings, ‘batik paintings’ and candles on walls.



Chef’s tidbit was tomato and olive oil emulsion.
The wine was Rutherford Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 from Napa Valley. As usual dark cherry colour, cassis and big oak +.

The water was Ashe Park estate bottled in Steventon, Hampshire. Soft and neutral.



Starter: Trio of foie gras with toasted brioche, apple chutney and Earl Grey jelly.

Foie gras and pistachio sausage with crushed salt grains setting off the harmonious marriage of tastes; my favourite +++. Earl Grey jelly was an interesting partner with the salty meat.
Foie gras, confit of duck and squab pigeon terrine (with apple chutney) was almost as good with particular mention of the chutney, which made balanced counterpoint with the richness of the fat ++.
Potted foie gras and Barbary Duck was always going to be difficult, both produce being immensely rich. I found that the apple chutney helped things along +.

At first, I thought the portions too large for a starter but was glad later…


Wild Boar braised with juniper and red wine on a bed of woodland mushrooms and tagliatelle.

This type of meat is challenging for the cook as it can be dry and indeed it was. The meaty sauce was a little bland and needed lifting with salt and perhaps, a piquant accompaniment e.g. sweet-sour chutney. Furthermore, the pasta was overcooked and wet. On the upside, the meat was cooked until tender.


Lemon and thyme sorbet [no picture] cleansed the palate with a suitable tartness, which was lifted by the thyme ++.



Dark Chocolate Tort, which I nicknamed Darth Vader Tie Fighter Too.

Cherries marinated in alcohol were perfect with the bittersweet chocolate ++.

Conclusion:
Lloyds is reputedly one of the better “French-style” restaurants around Canterbury. Based on the general ambience, staff attitude, starters and desserts, perhaps I was unlucky with my main course. I would not give my unqualified endorsement yet; a return visit is called for to check out the rest of the main courses.

[For the Canterbury Tour, please see Travel Forum]
[For the Marlowe Story, please see Belles Lettres and Beaux Arts Forum]


Pictures and text copyright Melvyn Teillol-Foo 2003.

MTF


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