Lazing with Luxury in Paris

I love Paris - Cole Porter 1953 Every time I look down on this timeless town, Whether blue or gray be her skies, Whether loud be her cheers, or whether soft be her tears, More and more do I realize that.... I love Paris in the springtime I love Paris in the fall I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles I love Paris every moment Every moment of the year I love Paris, why oh why do I love Paris Because my love is here Why do Parisians like vertical erections? The place is full of towers, obelisks and monuments. Eiffel Tower was a ‘temporary’ erection to impress visitors to the Universal Exhibition of 1889 and it was much decried by 19th century critics. Some even took detours to avoid seeing it. Designed by Gustave Eiffel (who also designed Statue of Liberte), the tower antennae is 320m (1051 ft) high. On hot days, she is 15 cm (6 in) higher due to metal expansion. I think the coolest thing is the hydraulic lift mechanism, which still works. 3,200-year-old obelisk from Luxor erected on Place de la Concorde. This is a large historic place of more than 20 acres in the middle of Paris. Starting off as Place Louis XV in 18th century to display a statue of the king, it became the Place de la Révolution with the guillotine replacing the statue. La Guillotine caressed 1,119 victims in two years, including Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette, Danton and Robespierre. The last two were revolutionary leaders...hmm...better the Devil you know? The chastened Revolutionaries renamed the place as Concorde and in the 19th century grand additions enhanced the square. Two fountains, the obelisk and eight statues personifying French cities were added. It is a delightful stroll down the rue de Rivoli from Place de la Concorde to my objective, Place Vendôme. The more cultural amongst you can continue on the Rivoli until you get to some museum which the French call Musée du Louvre. People go "Ooo-er" at a tiny painting of some woman with a crooked smile there . The Column - 44 metres high - is comprised of a stone core, encased in the bronze of 1250 cannons captured at the Battle of Austerliz (1805). It was designed by Denon, Gondouin, and Lepère and modeled in the style of Trajan's Column in Rome. It was constructioned during 1806 – 1810. Bergeret created the spiral bronze bas-relief. Originally a statue of Napoléon a Caesar was placed on top. This was replaced by a likeness of Henri IV, which was removed during the 100 Days (1815) when Napoléon returned from Elba and attempted to regain power. Afterwards Louis XVIII installed an enormous fleur-de-lys, but Louis-Philippe restored Napoléon in military uniform. During the Commune in 1871, a group of Communards lead by Gustave Courbet the artist, tore down the column. Rather than pay for its re-erection, as he was ordered, Courbet died (1877) in exile in Switzerland. During 1873 - 1874, the column was reestablished at the center of Place Vendôme with a copy of the original statue on top. Place Vendôme – 18th century elegance and 21st century avarice. Originally planned to house academies and embassies behind an octagon of arcaded facades, bankers moved in instead and created ornate homes. Federic Chopin died at No.12 in 1848 and César Ritz established his famous hotel at No.15. Today, the Place is virtually intact and jewellers, banks, financial consultants and watch houses occupy it and the surrounding area (rue de Castiglione and rue de la Paix): Boucheron, Breguet, Buccellati, Bvlgari, Cartier, Chanel, Chaumet, Chopard, Mauboussin, Omega, Patek Philipe, Piaget, Répossi, Swatch and Van Cleef & Arpels amongst others. More of those later. It was near lunchtime so I decided to stroll up rue de la Paix at the north end of Place Vendôme until this building swung into view. Opéra de Paris Garnier built with a mixture of styles from Classical to Baroque reflects the opulence of the Second Empire. Charles Garnier designed this ‘wedding cake’ for Napoléon III and constructed during1862-1875 using a mixture of materials (stone, marble and bronze). It took 13 years to complete and the arithmetically inclined will have to account for interruptions during the Prussian War and uprising of 1871. Underneath the building is a small lake, which provided Paul Leroux inspiration for the phantom’s hiding place in his ‘Phantom of the Opera’. The curved ramp and pavilion on the east side of the Opéra de Paris Garnier was a ‘device securite’ to allow the emperor to safely step out of the carriage into the rooms adjoining the Royal Box. This stemmed from an assasination attempt in 1858 outside an older opera house. Most operas are now performed at the new Opéra Bastille but the ballet remains here. Lunch Koba Restaurant Japonais, rue de la Michodiere is an amazing place. The chef from Laos speaks French, Japanese, Thai, Laotian and Mandarin. The wait-staff are Japanese, Thai and Chinese. The place was packed at lunchtime with French clients....and me. As my French is limited to menu translations, I resorted successfully to Japanese to put my order in. Who says living in Tokyo was a waste of time? Set meal came with fried squid appetiser, miso soup and pickles. You served yourself to tea at each bench. Main: Sushi Superior set. Dessert: Grapefruit in a light sirop. Cartier Joailliers Two vintage pieces and a new Tank Dual Time, which sorely tempted me at 13 rue de la Paix. Mr Paul Bassene is a supreme Temptor These Cartier Mystery clocks are ‘clearly’ out of my price range Boutique Omega Ms Svetlana Sarieva was a supreme Temptress at 7 rue de la Paix. This is the Speedmaster Broad Arrow Ltd Edition with Enamel dial Ref. 3657.20.31. 18KWG. No. 17 of 99. Calibre 3320 self winding COSC chronometre with circular graining, Geneva wave, rhodium-plated surfaces, gold-plated engravings and platinum rotor with 18KWG medallion. Listed at 14,650 Euro. Boutique Chopard The Paris Chopard boutique was less than 2 months old when I visited in April 2003. Looks like a comforting parlour at home, eh? Yes, if your home is at 1, Place Vendôme ! Ms Antonieta le Gorant de Tromelin (not pictured) was more than charming, as I pored over various ‘piece delice’ as potential bribes for my fair lady. She introduced me to Mr Jean-Yves Chaufour, Boutique Directeur, and we compared watches. This is the rare white gold LUC 1.96 with half hunter caseback Ref. 16/1860/1; 100 pieces Ltd Edition. I have the rose gold version. We’re watch-buddies . I briefly window-shopped at Boutique Patek Philippe; having just got a PP, there was no point drooling so soon. I looked around Boutique Breguet, 20 Place Vendôme but there was no spark in their current products . The museum was closed as many pieces are on a world tour. With the prospect of a delicious meal (see future Grazing article) with a French friend and gourmand looming, I hurried back to the hotel on one of these. What a therapeutic half-day in Paris! “Bon soir, my ‘leetle lazers’ until next time.......” Text and Photo copyright Melvyn Teillol-Foo 2003. MTF ThePuristS.com Travel Discussion Forum  |  ThePuristS.com Home Page We welcome comments, suggestions, and corrections. Copyright 2002-2003 - MTF and ThePuristS.com - all rights reserved