Girard-Perregaux
"Tourbillon Under Three Gold Bridges, automatic"

A brief impression


by PeterCDE
Đ September 2003

 

 

A short introduction

Does a dream need some introduction? Why not move on and just show the pictures?
Ok:

When i had the opportunity to see this watch and get some impressions, i had a hard time to control my excitement. You probably know these are rare birds and this was my very first chance to hold the automatic version of this movement in hands.

But this is not only one of the most beautiful watches ever made.
There is far more behind and these watches represent the philosophy and horological art by Girard-Perregaux like no other model.
Therefore, the data and visual impressions are only part of what makes the Tourbillon Under Three Gold Bridges so special.
I do hope some more words and informations can help to understand why this is one of the ultimate dream watches for me.

Letīs start with some few historical trivia of the wristwatch version:

 

A little history

The history of these watches spans more than 130 years; instead of more in-depth coverage, iīd like to point at Thomas Prescherīs report on a 1875-1879 small 30mm tourbillon only.

 

Another important vintage watch sporting a tourbillon is "La Esmeralda"; number 168230 is very special, dating past 1884 and one of only very few chronometer escapement tourbillons under red gold bridges.

 

As reported before, the movement design is not only beautiful, but very functional as well (almost all of these are certified chronometres or Observatory Chronometres).

 

The next important milestone was 1981; to commemorate the anniversary, GP started the production of 20 pocket watches with chronometer escapement movements.
Since there were no technical drawings in existance, a vintage pocket watch was completely disassembled, measured and rebuild. The difficulties GP had to deal with may be visible if you face the time it needs to do such a pocket watch: More than one year of work was needed by the team of master watch makers to build the first example, of which about 9 months were needed for assembly and adjustment.

The complexity of this movement is apparent and stunning:

 

In 1991, in order to celebrate the bi-centennial anniversary GP presented the first wrist version of the Tourbillon Under Three Gold Bridges. Available in different cases and for the first time as a sceleton version, the manual wind movement dominates the appearance:


picture courtesy of ThomasM


Laureato case
picture courtesy of ThomasM

 

In 1999, the automatic version was introduced.

As GPīs website says:
"Their idea, a real stroke of genius, was to use the space available on the plate below and around the barrel to install a small platinum rotor which, due to its high density, would compensate for its small diameter. This respects both the dimension of the movement and the perfect structure of the three Bridges.

Patented by the GIRARD-PERREGAUX Manufactory, this technical feat produced not only an absolutely reliable movement, but one with a power reserve of over 48 hours, another remarkable feature in a watch now recognised throughout the world as one of the most beautiful Tourbillons ever produced by Switzerland's fine luxury watchmakers."

The sceleton automatic tourbillon, presented in 2003:

You see, thereīs a long tradition of both technical and aesthetical merits behind these wonderful watches. They are not only very beautiful, but very special as well.

 

Reference 99090 - number 3 does have white bridges

The pure facts:

  • Reference 99090 (now reference 99250 in the 2003 catalogue)
  • GP calibre 9600C
  • Automatic 12" ligne movement with micro-rotor and tourbillon
  • Beat rate 21.600 A/h
  • 32 jewels
  • Power reserve of 48 hours
  • Case materials: pink/yellow/white gold and platinum
  • Case width 38mm
  • Case heigth 9.9mm, domed sapphire crystal
  • Water resistance 30m
  • Bracelet/strap width 20/16mm

This particular watch does have a platinum case and solid white gold bridges; among the few 3-bridges tourbillon watches made each year (the number does not exceed 10 pieces very much), these are very rare.

Now the pictures speak for themselves:

 

Some impressions: This watch is heavy and massive. The heft of the platinum is inexpected and it is much more prominent than the pictures can show. Yet it is a delicate and fine watch; the bold bridge towers are a beautiful counterpoint of the fine micro-mechanism of the tourbillon and gear train.
It is a spectacular watch, but it reveals the true beauty and the incredible finish only on close inspection. The engraving and perlage parts rival the perfect flat (or black) polishing. And the hidden microrotor is simply fascinating; even while having the watch in hands it is not recognizeable as an automatic watch on first sight.
Truly a masterpiece and haute horlogerie par excellance.

 

A final note

Among the vintage and contemporary watches by GP, these watches are special pieces.
If there is one watch which represents the brand, the philosophy of GP and all the rights to sign their movements like this

then it is the "Tourbillon Under Three Gold Bridges"

 

Finally, my sincere thanks to GP Germany/ht-time for giving us the opportunity to encounter this marvel and GP Swiss for providing additional informations!

 

Peter

 


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