A Quick Look at the Vintage Calibre 86
by Girard-Perregaux

by PeterCDE
© May 2003

Introduction

1944 ad

The history of models by Girard-Perregaux with rectangular cases and rectangular or "form" movements is quite long and full of interesting watches.

One of the movements that was used by Girard-Perregaux for more than two decades was the calibre GP 86. It was found in a variety of watches, many of them having rectangular cases with a touch of "art deco".

1944 ad

Yet there is not much information around, although there are some interesting and some charmingly mysterious facts.

Please join me for a closer look at this movement and it´s origins.

(a curved model with GP 86)
click on the pictures to see enlarged versions

Some Data

The plain data: The GP 86 was a medium to large size movement for it´s time, measuring 8 x 9 ligne (21.5 x 18.5mm) and 3.8mm high. Every version by Girard-Perregaux I´m aware of has 17 jewels and three gold chatons (as pictured right), but lacks shock protection.

When did GP start to make use of this movement?

According to vintage advertisements and catalogues like the initially pictured examples of 1944, this seems to be in the early 1940´s. The exact date is a bit of a mystery; nonetheless, this movement was used in other watches closely related to Girard-Perregaux:

The calibre 86 was in use in the Mimo Group which bought GP in 1928. Although these examples do not bear any signs of a GP production, they can be traced back to at least the 1930´s. At that time, it was not unusual for different brands inside the Graef Group to make use of similar movements (still today a common practice in the Swiss watchmaking industry).

Interestingly, most of the movement literature does not list the GP 86 until late 1950´s. The reason may be the base movement:

Upon closer examination of the dial side, the GP 86 reveals it´s base. It is an ebauche by FEF, the "Fabrique d´Ebauches de Fleurier".

Founded in 1920, the movement blanc (base or raw movements) factory was integrated in the ESA-group in 1932. Today the factory buildings are the heart of the movement production by Chopard (for their microrotor automatic movements).

The FEF 86 itself is not widely documented, or at least not as well known as other rectangular movements by this maker such as the FEF 170.

Obviously, it´s been in production over quite some time before appearing in the parts lists.

The reason is unknown; it may have been in use as a reserved calibre for certain brands or it may be a result of a different numbering system by FHF.

(Mimo catalogue around 1935,
features a 15 jewel version,
without jewel for the center wheel)

The FEF 170, pictured in the movement literature since late 1940´s, is a movement still in use today. One example is the Giro by Rainer Brand, an unusual watch with a turnable inner case:

(the Giro by Rainber Brand)
click on the picture to see a moving animation (144KB)

The basic FEF 170 appears to be almost identical, which may lead to the conclusion the FEF 86 is in fact a differently labeled version of the FEF 170. At this point, further details about the history remain a secret, with some hope of another interesting story in another article...

(left: a variety of 1939 MIMO watches with cal. 86, rigth: FEF 170)
click on the left picture to see a bigger version)

Yet the GP is not a basic FEF; there are some differences between the basic FEF ebauche and the Girard Perregaux version:

(above: two GP86, below: FEF86)

The most obvious difference: The GP does have a faux "three-finger" styled bridge (actually it´s only one part) over the gear train and escape wheel. While they seem to serve no other than aesthetical purposes, this style of the bridge can be found on other movements by GP of that time. It appears that GP made some (promotional) efforts to conjure up the famous "Three Golden Bridges" design. At least it is more appealing than the basic design of the FHF ebauche.

Another historical sidenote:

A variety of earlier Mimo watches can be found in different variations, obviously of the same production period. One of the differences was the case material: chrome, steel and gold were used for the same model. These watches bear movements with different jewel counts and several of them were used in variants with 15, 17 or 19 jewels. This may appear unusual from a contemporary perspective, but the reason can be found in the vintage catalogues: Some 60-70 years ago it was common practice to buy a watch by the quality of the movement rather than the brand name. Like many makers, the watches by Mimo were offered with 1st, 2nd and 3rd quality movements:

(a 1939 MIMO catalogue with different movement qualities)
click on the picture to enlarge

Some general impressions

The GP 86 is not a haute horlogerie piece as it does not have the fine finish and the elaborate decoration of higher grade movements. But even if regarded as a mid-grade movement, it does have several interesting details.

One of them is the use of gold chatons and screwed-in plates for the cap jewels:

(jewel settings)

The sides of the bridges are not as carefully bevelled as can be found in higher grade movements, but they are polished nonetheless.

Like many GP movements, the bridges bear minimal decorative elements.

But the underside is polished and finished with a circular graining. The cap jewel plate for the escape wheel is set in a nicely polished recess:

(gear train bridge)

(balance cock)

The gear train itself does not have highly angled and polished wheels, but the bevelling of the spokes appears more elaborate than ususal:

different view

(gear train)

The finishing aspect of the base plate reveals another difference to the standard FEF86 movement; GP not only added "slots" which allow easier removal of the bridges, but again polished the functional parts of the base plate with circular graining (perlage) and altered the area around the balance setting:

(left: GP 86, right: FEF 86)

The balance is a conventional mono-metallic balance with screws and a flat, blued hairspring; nonetheless, it´s a Glucydur balance:

(the GP 86 balance)

Over all, the GP 86 is a nicely converted ebauche which shows some functional improvements of the working parts. Although there have been some much more elaborate, more expensive and probably prettier movements in existance over the years, it´s quite an unusual and better than average movement.

... and different versions

Another interesting point is the existence of different versions. For the use in watches with highly curved cases and dials (often questionably referred to as "Curvex", a name properly used in relation to some Gruen models), GP made a different version of this movement with an additional plate on the dial side of the base plate, covering the pinions and wheels:

(two GP 86 versions)

This "curved" version does have a polished base plate, decorated with perlage, while the added plate itself is almost unfinished. That is rather unusual and the reason is unknown.

(the "curved dial" version with the additional plate)

Both versions are signed FEF86 on the dial side of the base plate, although not easily to see on the perlage version.

(dial side inscriptions)

(two GP 86 versions)

A final conclusion

Although the GP 86 is not comparable to the haute horlogerie pieces GP made then and now, it´s an interesting movement with quite some tradition and surprising details.

Most of the watches to bear these movements appear to be made for the export markets such as the US, which would explain the jewel count (traditionally US movements had higher jewel counts) and the inscription.

These movements were reliable and quite precise timekeepers, available in a variety of different watches from mid 1930´s to late 1940´s.For these reasons, one may regard them as collectable in their own right.

(GP ad of fall 1947)
This watch is very likely the 1935 Mimo reference E 3277 (as on the Mimo catalogue sheet above)

(late 1920´s Mimo 72 - GP 86 - later GP 91)
click on the picture to enlarge

I would like to emphasize no working movement was harmed during the photo shooting; with the endless number of badly "repaired" movements out there, another couple of them is not needed. That said, I would not suggest to take a working example apart unless it is done with the appropiate knowledge and tools.

PeterCDE